THE PIONEER CABIN - REEDER'S ALLEY BRIDGE STREET 1870s STEREOSCOPE VIEWS 1880s VIEWS OF STATE STREET AND CATHOLIC HILL MADAMS JOSEPHINE HENSELY & BELLE CRAFTON VIEWS OF BROADWAY THE LEWIS & CLARK COUNTY COURT HOUSE FOIDEL UNDERTAKING COMPANY BUILDING 1935 EARTHQUAKE DAMAGE 1970s URBAN RENEWAL DEMOLITION TME-LAPSE ANIMATION OF SOUTH MAIN

The area south of Broadway that came to be known as "South Main" was the birthplace of Helena. It was there that gold was discovered in 1864, and where the development of the city began. It may be said that the area retained much of its frontier character long after the rest of the city was more or less civilized.

By the mid-20th Century, "South Main" had become synonymous with "Dangerous Underclass", and was generally regarded as an area to avoid -- unless one wanted good Chinese food, of course. Then, setting a cautious foot onto the northern edge of South Main to visit the House of Wong or the Yat Son Noodle Parlor seemed worth the risk.

For all its risks, real and imagined, the area retained much of Helena's history within its confines.

The Urban Renewal Plan (some might say Debacle) of the 1970s displaced a number of lower-income families, destroyed whatever community was there, and demolished most of the Victorian-era structures in the area. In total, 228 buildings were demolished, over 140 businesses were displaced, and 430 familes had to find somewhere else to live.

Insipid 1970s government buildings were erected in the center of the historic district, including a new Federal Building, which the Feds have since abandoned for a newer, bigger one in the Great Northern Town Center.

The oldest structure still standing in Helena, the Pioneer Cabin, Reeder's Alley at Park Ave. It was built on a gold claim by Wilson Butts in 1864-65.

 

 

 

The Pioneer Cabin, 1904. Shown is George Mitchell, who then owned the cabin and operated a wood lot in the rear.

 

 

 

Reeder's Alley, 1970s. Once housing for miners, once a would-be art colony, Reeder's Alley has seen many changes over the past 140 years. Today, it houses a variety of business and offices. It has been owned by the State of Montana since 2000. COLLECTION OF KENNON BAIRD





 

Bridge Street, 1860s, looking east from the Gulch. By the 1970s, this was the heart of Helena's red-light district. Bridge St. was renamed State St. in 1889.

 

 

 

Stereoview of Main St. (Last Chance Gulch) 1878. Note: You can see such images in 3-D without the use of a viewer by unfocusing your eyes as you may have done for the popular "Magic Eye" posters.

 

 

 

Stereoview of a Fourth of July speakers' platform and assembled crowd, ca. 1875. On the hillside in the background can be seen the fire tower lookout.

 

 

 

State Street area, looking southeast, one late afternoon in the 1880s. A lovely view, but one wonders where all the people are.

 

 

 

A view similar to the preceeding one, taken in 1889. A haze of winter wood and coal smoke hangs over the city. The large home at the top left was owned at different times by two pioneer Helena merchants, A. G. Clarke and H. M. Parchen.

 

 

 

"Catholic Hill", looking north across State St., ca. 1885. The large building on the right is St. Vincent's Academy, a Catholic school. Across S. Ewing St., to the left, is the first St. John's Hospital.

 


HELENA'S RED LIGHT DISTRICT
• MADAMS JOSEPHINE ""CHICAGO JOE"" HENSLEY & BELLE "CRAZY BELLE" CRAFTON

The Grand, at the corner of State and Joliet, shown in 1942. During the gold-rush era, it was owned by Josephine "Chicago Jo" Hensley, and was likely a brothel. Hensley also owned the Red Light Saloon, the Coliseum variety theater, and had other commercial interests in the Helena area, including stock-raising.



Josephine Hensley

Bozeman historian B. Derek Strahn, writing for the website "Distictly Montana", gives us the lowdown on Chicago Joe and two other successful Helena prostutute/madams:

Mirroring Helena’s prosperous aura was its extensive red light district, which flourished between Wood and Bridge Streets. Initially, a number of “proprietor prostitutes” working alone out of small houses that they owned, defined the district. By the 1880s, however, a few increasingly powerful madams consolidated ownership of the tenderloin, erecting several large parlors and colorful bawdy houses. By 1886, no less than 52 white prostitutes worked in Helena’s demimonde, which for more than 20 years had constituted the town’s largest single source of women’s employment outside of the home.

One of the most prominent madams in Helena during this time was Josephine Airey “Chicago Joe” Hensley who, beginning in 1871, shrewdly manipulated a series of business deals to become “the queen of the city’s red light district.” Mortgaging everything, including “three dozen pair of underclothes,” she rapidly became the largest landowner on Wood Street. At the peak of her success, “Chicago Joe” had invested more than $30,000 to erect the Coliseum, a vaudevillian variety theater, and other sizable building projects. But the nationwide Panic of 1893 found her financially overextended, and virtually all of her property ultimately transferred to others. She died of pneumonia a few years later at the age of 56.


1880's HELENA NEWSPAPER CLIPPINGS FEATURING CHICAGO JOE
CLICK ON THE CLIPPINGS FOR LARGER VIEWS IN NEW WINDOWS
A NEW SUPPLY OF GIRLS AND A MISUNDERSTANDING - 1884


FATAL MORPHENE OVERDOSE -1884



HORSE THIEVES FOILED



A DISPLAY AD IN THE DAILY INDEPENDENT



Chicago Joe had a few problems with her hubby...



LEGAL NOTICE IN THE JANUARY 10, 1883 DAILY INDEPENDENT


• • •

BELLE "CRAZY BELLE" CRAFTON
AKA MOLLIE BYRNES, AKA MOLLIE WEINSHEIMER

Looking east up State Street, ca. 1890.

Mr. Strahn's article continues...


Mollie “Crazy Belle Crafton” Byrnes was another significant player in Helena’s red light distirct. Born in New Orleans, Byrnes settled in Helena in 1881 and set up operations in the heart of the demimonde. By May of 1884, she secured the old Kiyus Saloon property, while renting several other residential properties in other parts of the city. Two years later she financed the construction of a grand, $12,000 bordello that soon became known as “the castle.” By 1899, Byrnes sold her flagship property to a local hotel owner. When she died of acute alcoholism a year later, her estate was valued at $20,000 cash in real and personal property.

A 1901 Anaconda Standard article on the legal battle over Belle Craftons' estate.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

• • •

Another successful Helena prostitute was Louisa Couselle who, like Hensley and Byrnes, regularly bought and sold property while extending mortgages to others. Sensing opportunity in uncharted waters, Couselle soon relocated to Bozeman, where competition was virtually non-existent. With impressive financial resources at her disposal, Couselle purchased a total of 15 lots, laying the foundation for a rapidly-growing tenderloin that would flourish one half block north of Main Street between North Rouse and North Bozeman Avenues. The enterprise was very profitable, and by 1878, Couselle was of greater economic means than roughly 95 percent of Bozeman’s citizens. Her stature was so impressive that The Avant Courier Annual Almanac listed her as one of the 59 “heavy taxpayers of Gallatin County.

The tradition of South Main brothels continued until 1973, when the establishment of the legendary Dorothy Baker was closed down. The well-trod entrance to "Dorothy's Rooms" was on Jackson St.

MANY THANKS TO PROF. PAULA PETRIK, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR OF THE CENTER FOR HISTORY & NEW MEDIA AT GEORGE MASON UNIVERSITY, FOR HER VALUABLE INPUT AND KIND ASSISTANCE. PROF. PETRIK IS THE AUTHOR OF "NO STEP BACKWARD: WOMEN AND FAMILY ON THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN MINING FRONTIER, HELENA, MONTANA, 1865-1900"

 



VIEWS OF BROADWAY

Stereoview of the Daily and Weekly Herald building, on Broadway, ca. 1875.

 

 

 

Broadway, looking east from Main, 1890s.

 

 

 

Broadway, looking west from above Jackson St., 1888.

 

 


THE LEWIS AND CLARK COUNTY COURTHOUSE

Two Lewis & Clark County Courthouses, 228 Broadway,1887. This view is looking south-east. The small building was the second County Courthouse, which was replaced by the large new turreted one in 1887. For a time, the new building housed all territorial (later state) and county offices.

The small building was demolished soon after this photo was taken. The handsome clock tower was damaged in the 1935 earthquakes, taken down, and not rebuilt.

From the Helena Independent, Nov. 18, 1935: The courthouse clock is no more. The "highboy" of Helena which lifted its sad face to the four winds, each telling a different story of the time, is to be permanently done away with.

After fifty years of faithful service, during which time at least one face always told the correct time, the old clock gave up the battle and fell a prey to the earthquake bugaboo. It was ordered removed along with all the heavy chimneys and fancy brownstone work which constituted hazards to the building and the public.

When the courthouse building was erected in 1885, the crowning touch of glory to the massive stone structure, was the tower and clock on the north face of the building over the front door. Because of the manner in which the building was situated in its full block of grass, flower beds and walks and the near proximity of Broadway to the rear, the front door was often regarded as the back and the back door as the front and the side door on the east, through which prisoners were brought from the courtroom to the jail, as the door of sorrow.

Saturday morning the south face of the clock, which lifted up its hands to the noonday sun and asked for prompt payment of all tax obligations, was taken down by workmen who tenderly removed it from the tower and consigned it to the land of forgotten things. And so today the face on the north which says 6:15 and the face on the east which says 8:32 and the face on the west which says nothing, will be retired from public life.

 

 

The Lewis & Clark County Courthouse area, ca.1890. This beauty is from Jeff Sherlock, who writes:

This photo shows the Presbyterian Church (1875-1890) at the corner of 5th and Ewing; this area is currently the County Courthouse parking lot. In the background we see the just-
completed courthouse and jail. This photo must have been taken from roof of the Chessman apts., in 1889 or 1890.

Just over the right edge of the courthouse roof is the steeple of the old Methodist Church on Broadway.

Thanks, Jeff!

 

 



1889 Illustration of the courthouse when it also housed territorial offices.

 

 

 

 

Two postcard views of the Courthouse, looking south. The granite turret of the Lewis & Clark County Jail can be seen on the left.

 

 

 

 

 

County Court House, looking SE, ca. 1915. Note the large radio antenna extending from the clock tower. COLLECTION OF KENNON BAIRD

 

 

Early 1960s view of the Lewis & Clark County Courthouse, looking north from Broadway.



Edwards St., looking west, ca. 1890. The Marlow Theatre would be built on the left-hand side of the street in 1918. Edwards St., along with the Marlow, would be eliminated by Urban Renewal in the 1970s.

 


THE FOIDEL UNDERTAKING COMPANY
FIRST HOME OF THE HELENA BRANCH OF THE FEDERAL RESERVE BANK



THE WES AND CAROL SYNNESS COLLECTION

The Foidel Undertaking Company building, southeast corner of Park and Edwards, 1972. The Marlow Theatre stands behind it. This image was made by digitally stitching together two seperate photos, which accounts for the slight blur down the center.

Built in 1905, this building became the Federal Reserve Branch Bank in 1921. The second story was added at that time. After the Bank moved to custom-built quarters on Park Ave. in 1938, this building became the Union Bus Depot. The Foidel Building was demolished in 1974. Click here for an interesting history of the Helena Branch of the Federal Reserve.



THE HELENA BRANCH OF THE FEDERAL RESERVE, 1920s.

 

 

The 1889 Bluestone House after the 1935 earthquakes. The curiously-designed building was already in disrepair before the quakes. It was restored with Urban Renewal funds in the 1970s.
THE WES AND CAROL SYNNESS COLLECTION



 

Earthquake cleanup on South Main, 1935, looking east from above Park Ave. Note the piles of rubble in the foreground, and the obvious damage to several buildings. It appears that scaffolding has been erected across the front of a building on the right. THE WES AND CAROL SYNNESS COLLECTION

 

 

 

Two views of 1970s Urban Renewal Program demolition...
THE WES AND CAROL SYNNESS COLLECTION

 


 

Urban Renewal Program in progress, 1970. A stripped 1950s Community Transit Co. taxi inside the shell of a South Main building. COLLECTION OF KENNON BAIRD

 

 

The Colwell Building, 1972.
THE WES AND CAROL SYNNESS COLLECTION

 



A N I M A T I O N

AVI animation of the changing face of South Main, 1950s to the present. Click the image above to download.